Super Simple Fingerless Mitts

Two years ago I decided to write a really easy fingerless mittens pattern...

The original mitts.

I made them to match my stripy snood.

and I made them...then promptly forgot to actually write the pattern up and share it!  So, I've worked out how I made them, made another pair and this time I've actually written the pattern up and here it is!

Photo courtesy of my twelve year old!  Otherwise you only get one hand in the photo!
 

Like this...

...and this!





It's very, very easy to make these larger (increase foundation chain and the amount of rows) or smaller (decrease foundation chain and the amount of rows). The pattern, as it is, makes mitts that are stretchy enough for my massive hands and also work for my twelve year old's hands.

The first mitts were made with Stylecraft Special dk (all 88 colours are available in the Planet Yarn online shop), using alternating rows of Teal and Emperor.  The most recent pair have been made with Purple Haze Stylecraft Caberet, a gorgeously soft, self striping yarn which also has a glittery thread running through it!  I blinking love this yarn, have a look in the Planet Yarn online shop at the other gorgeous colours available - soooooo pretty!

So here it is (finally)!  My super simple fingerless mittens pattern!

Skills needed: US double crochet (dc)/UK treble crochet (tr), crocheting in the round, chain (ch), slip stich (sl st).

Yarn and equipment needed:

 

• dk yarn (approx. 40 grams)
• 4mm crochet hook
• Yarn needle
• Stitch markers (optional but recommended)
• Scissors

Notes: crocheting in the round, especially with double crochet stitches, can be a little confusing…it’s really easy to miscount and add an extra stitch when you end a round. To make it easier put a stitch marker in that third chain (the one that counts as your first dc on each row) then you can do a quick count when you come back around to it and make sure you still have just 30 tr (30dc in US terms) per round. 

I’ve included two versions of the pattern, one in UK terms and one in US terms. 

The pattern in UK crochet terms:

ch 33

Row 1:  tr into fourth chain from hook (counts as second tr), tr along until the end of the chain (you should have 30 stitches, slip stitch into the third chain at the start (taking care not to twist the row)

Row 2: ch 3 (first tr) then tr around the circle you have just created with row1until you reach the ch 3 again.  Sl st into the third chain (30tr)

Rows 3 -9: repeat row 2

Making the thumb hole

Row 10: ch 3 (first tr) then tr into the next 14 stitches, ch5, miss the next five stitches then tr into the final 10 stitches until you meet the ch 3 again.  Sl st into the third chain (30 stitches, 25tr and 5ch)

Row 11: ch 3 (first tr) then tr into the next 30 stitches, when you get to the chains from row 10 just treble over these as you would have done in the previous rows. (30tr)

Rows 12-15: repeat row 2

Break yarn.

Carefully weave in all ends, making sure you take particular care joining the first row neatly, remember the original foundation chain wasn’t joined there is just the slip stitch at the end of the first row. 

Now make another one!

Ta dah! Proudly wear your fabulous fingerless mitts or give ‘em to someone you love!

The pattern in US crochet terms:

ch 33

Row 1:  dc into fourth chain from hook (counts as second dc), dc along until the end of the chain (you should have 30 stitches, slip stitch into the third chain at the start (taking care not to twist the row)

Row 2: ch 3 (first dc) then dc around the circle you have just created with row1until you reach the ch 3 again.  Sl st into the third chain (30dc)

Rows 3 -9: repeat row 2

Making the thumb hole

Row 10: ch 3 (first dc) then dc into the next 14 stitches, ch5, miss the next five stitches then dc into the final 10 stitches until you meet the ch 3 again.  Sl st into the third chain (30 stitches, 25dc and 5ch)

Row 11: ch 3 (first dc) then dc into the next 30 stitches, when you get to the chains from row 10 just treble over these as you would have done in the previous rows. (30dc)

Rows 12-15: repeat row 2

Break yarn.

Carefully weave in all ends, making sure you take particular care joining the first row neatly, remember the original foundation chain wasn’t joined there is just the slip stitch at the end of the first row. 

Now make another one!

Ta dah! Proudly wear your fabulous fingerless mitts or give ‘em to someone you love!

Crochet Poppy Pattern

It's Remembrance Day, or Armistice Day, here in the UK and in many countries around the world soon.  I've worn a poppy on this day, and the days leading up to it, for as long as I can remember.  I have very clear memories of the 'Poppy Tray' being brought around the classes when I was at Primary School and today exactly the same thing still happens.  I am thankful for the men and women who have and still do fight for the world to be a better place.  I wear my poppy with pride and thankfulness.

The two biggest UK charities are Poppy Scotland and The British Legion.  Here's their stories:

The British Legion's Story of the Poppy

Poppy Scotland's Poppy Story

The poem Flanders Fields by John McCrae is pretty much the accepted origin of wearing a poppy. 

I was asked to make some crochet poppies by my friends at work.  I'm just going to take them into work for whoever wants one and they can put their own donation in the charity box: there are plenty around, thanks to all the volunteers.

There are only two rounds to this pattern, making it super quick to work up.  I've gone for a three petal poppy.  It looks good just in red yarn with a black button in the centre, but I must admit I prefer it with a black middle.

Pattern:

Using dk yarn and a 4mm hook.

This pattern uses US crochet terms.

Round 1

Begin with magic circle, ch 2 (doesn't count as a dc) and 12 dc into the circle and slip stitch to the first dc. to complete the circle.  Pull gently on the yarn tail to close the magic circle (12)

If you did this round in black break yarn and slip stich your red yarn into any of the dc stitches.  If you're doing the whole poppy red, then just carry on!

Round 2

*hdc, dc and trc into first stitch, 5 trc into next stitch, then trc, dc and hdc into third stitch, sl st into fourth* repeat twice.

Done!

Sew your ends in and add button, if you like, put a safety pin at the back and you're good to go.

If you're feeling fancy you can double layer the poppy AND add a button:

 

I like 'em on their own though:

With a button for the all red version.

 

Excuse my ends not sewn in...I've not sewed the safety pins on the back yet!

 

 

Yarnling Pattern

Planet Yarn would be inhabited by yarnlings...right?  That's what I thought, so I started making them.  Some stick around (literally: they have magnets in their bottoms) and some like to travel our own planet.  They come in all shapes and as they're made from Stylecraft Special dk, they clearly come in many, many colours (currently 88!). 

Although I tend to make them up as I go along I thought it would be fun to send a pattern out there, into the world, so anyone could hook up their own yarnling if they fancied it.

So here is the yarnling in question!  Cute eh?  This little 'un is made with bright green Stylecraft Special dk.  (Quick note: this is not a toy and the finished item is not suitable to give to small children)

I've worked on making this pattern as easy as possible to follow and if you have any advice to make it even clearer I would be very grateful!  If you have a go and get stuck then leave me a message on this post and I'll hopefully get you unstuck!

Yarnling Pattern

by Debbie Sixsmith

Level:  easy stitches but a bit fiddly

 

Skills needed: US single crochet (sc)/UK double crochet (dc), crocheting in the round, slip stich (sl st), crochet in back stitch, magic ring.

Yarn and equipment needed:

·         Stylecraft Special dk yarn (approx. 10 grams)

·         4mm crochet hook

·         scissors

·         yarn needle

·         stitch marker

·         safety eyes (or sew beads/embroider them on)

·         magnet (if you want your alien to have a ‘sticky’ bottom

·         fork or pom pom maker

·         toy stuffing

Notes: The amigurumi technique of spiralling instead of joining each row is used.  It may help you to use a stitch marker so you know where the end of each row is.

I’ve included two versions of the pattern, one in UK terms and one in US terms. 

The pattern in UK crochet terms:

Body:

For the base:

Magic circle and dc 6 into magic circle and gently pull closed (6)

Round 2: 2 dc in each stitch (12)

Round 3: *2 dc in stitch, 1dc in stitch* repeat 5 more times(18)

Round 4: *2 dc, 1 dc, 1 dc* repeat 5 more times (24)

For the following you will be stitching into the back stitch only, this will build up the body’s sides.

Rounds 5 – 18: dc in each in the back chain of each stitch.

Leave a long yarn tail, and leave your last stitch open, when you fasten off your yarn (about 30cm) because you’re going to close the top of the head up with it.

Your little alien’s body is inside out right now…but leave it that way, if you want to sew a magnet into it’s bottom to make it a sticky alien.  If not then turn your yarnling ‘inside out’ to get it the right way!

Magnet pocket:

As for the base above, make a magic circle and dc 6 into it and pull gently to close (6)

Round 2: 2dc into each stitch (12)

Round 3: *2dc then 1dc* repeat (18)

To sew magnet into yarnling’s bottom stitch the little circle you’ve made right over the corresponding circle in the yarnling’s body, make sure you slip the magnet in before you close the stitching!  Now turn your body ‘inside out’ so the pocket is snugly inside and your alien is not right side out.  Don’t worry about any ends, they’ll all be hidden inside.

magnet placed on the base of the inside out yarnling

pocket placed over the magnet ready to sew on



 

Arms (make two):

Make a magic circle and dc 4 into it and pull gently closed (4)

Rounds 2 – 6: dc into each stitch (4)

Leave a long yarn tail (about 20cm) so you can sew the arms on with it.  Pull the last loop closed by fastening off in the normal way.

Your arms are made inside out so using your crochet hook pull the arm out the right way.  It can be a bit fiddly!

Putting your yarnling together:

All the yarnling's components, including magnet and safety eyes.

Flatten out your yarnling’s body with the long tail and open loop at the edge (as in the above picture), you are going to be joining your yarnling’s body at the top to make a flat edge, like a cushion.

Decide where you would like its eyes to be (between rows 10 and 11 looks good) then either fit your safety eyes or sew some stitches with the yarn colour you’d like for eyes. 

Now stuff your yarnling as loosely or as tightly as you’d like.  Like humans, some yarnlings are plumper than others!

Using the open loop you left at the top of its body you are going to slip stitch across the top of the yarnling’s body to finish the top of its head off.  When you finish off lose the end in its body instead of trimming it.

Decide where you your yarnling’s arms will look best, between rows 8 and 9 right on the sides looks good.  Sew your arms on securely (they’re too tiny for stuffing), fasten off and lose those ends into your stuffed body rather than trimming them off.

Now does your yarnling need pom pom ears? Most do!  Take yourself off to look at my form pom pom tutorial here on the Planet Yarn blog or get out your pom pom maker and make two for your yarnling’s bonce.  Sew ‘em on and you’re good to go!

 

The pattern in US crochet terms:

Body:

For the base:

Make a magic circle and sc 6 into it and gently pull closed (6)

Round 2: 2 sc in each stitch (12)

Round 3: *2 sc in stitch, 1sc in stitch* repeat 5 more times (18)

Round 4: *2 sc, 1sc, 1sc* repeat 5 more times (24)

For the following you will be stitching into the back stitch only, this will build up the body’s sides.

Rounds 5 – 18: sc in each in the back chain of each stitch.

Leave a long yarn tail, and leave your last stitch open, when you fasten off your yarn (about 30cm) because you’re going to close the top of the head up with it.

Your little alien’s body is inside out right now…but leave it that way, if you want to sew a magnet into its bottom to make it a sticky alien.  If not then turn your yarnling ‘inside out’ to get it the right way!

Magnet pocket:

As for the base above, make a magic circle and sc 6 into it and pull gently to close (6)

Round 2: 2 sc into each stitch (12)

Round 3: *2 sc then 1sc* repeat five times (18)

To sew magnet into yarnling’s bottom stitch the little circle you’ve made right over the corresponding circle in the yarnling’s body, make sure you slip the magnet in before you close the stitching!  Now turn your body ‘inside out’ so the pocket is snugly inside and your alien is not right side out.  Don’t worry about any ends, they’ll all be hidden inside.

magnet placed on the base of the inside out yarnling

pocket placed over the magnet ready to sew on

 

Arms (make two):

Make a magic circle and sc 4 into it and pull gently closed (4)

Rounds 2 – 6: sc into each stitch (4)

Leave a long yarn tail (about 20cm) so you can sew the arms on with it.  Pull the last loop closed by fastening off in the normal way.

Your arms are made inside out so using your crochet hook pull the arm out the right way.  It can be a bit fiddly!

Putting your yarnling together:

All the yarnling's components, including magnet and safety eyes.

Flatten out your yarnling’s body with the long tail and open loop at the edge (as in the photo above), you are going to be joining your yarnling’s body at the top to make a flat edge, like a cushion.

Decide where you would like its eyes to be (between rows 10 and 11 looks good) then either fit your safety eyes or sew some stitches/beads for eyes.

Now stuff your yarnling as loosely or as tightly as you’d like.  Like earthlings, some yarnlings are plumper than others!

Using the open loop you left at the top of its body you are going to slip stitch across the top of the yarnling’s body to finish the top of its head off.  When you finish off lose the end in its body instead of trimming it.

Decide where you your yarnling’s arms will look best, between rows 8 and 9 right on the sides looks good.  Sew your arms on securely (they’re too tiny for stuffing), fasten off and lose those ends into your stuffed body rather than trimming them off.

Now does your yarnling need pom pom ears? Most do!  Take yourself off to look at my fork pom pom tutorial on the Planet Yarn blog here or get out your pom pom maker and make two for your yarnling’s bonce.  Sew ‘em on and you’re good to go!

Copyright of this pattern belongs to Debbie Sixsmith and may not be copied or shared without crediting the owner and website first published on www.planetyarn.co.uk

You are free to make as many yarnlings as you like for personal use and for sale but please credit the pattern to Debbie Sixsmith at www.planetyarn.co.uk

Little Easter Eggs free crochet pattern

I woke up this morning and fancied hooking up some colourful little Easter eggs, probably to use as bunting, for the Easter weekend coming up. 

I'm really quite pleased with how they turned out.  If I'd been remotely organised they probably would have made very cute Easter card embellishments...maybe next year...

I'm a visual learner/worker so writing up patterns is easier for me if I use symbols rather than words.  Here's what I ended up with:

 Then I used Crochet Charts free downloadable programme to make the proper version:

...and here are the written instructions, look I've even matched each round colour on the chart to each section of the pattern...which...well actually it makes it easier for me!  Heh! 

Using dk yarn and a 4mm hook.

Round 1

Begin with magic circle, ch 3 (counts as first dc) and 11 dc into the circle and slip stitch to the third ch of the ch3 to complete the circle.  Pull gently on the yarn tail to close the magic circle (12)

Round 2

Ch 3 (counts as first dc) and dc into first stitch of round 1, 2dc in next two stitches, 2dc and 1hdc in the next stitch, 1hdc and 1 sc in next stitch, 2sc in next stitch, 2hdc and 1dc in next stitch, 3 tc in the next stitch (you are now at the top ‘pointy’ bit of your egg), in the next stitch of round 1 1dc and 2hdc, 2sc in next stitch, 1sc and 1hdc in next stitch, hdc and 2 dc stitches then sl st into the third ch of the ch3 to complete the egg shape. (29)

Round 3

Sc around your whole egg shape (29)

Fasten off yarn and sew in your ends.

You’ve cracked it!  (sorry, not sorry)

So there you go!  A quick little Easter project if you fancy it.  As I said before, mine's probably going to end up as bunting...what will you do with your little eggs?

Baby hat with ears? Sorted!

It's been a while but I really did intend on posting this ears pattern quite soon after the original pattern was written up.  However, seven months later here it is!

Start with the baby basics newborn hat pattern and make two of the following:

US terms
dk yarn, 4mm hook
you are crocheting in the round, just like the method for making the hat.

Row 1: make a magic circle, ch 2 then dc 12 into the magic circle loop and sl st into first dc (not the ch2) (()
Row 2: ch 2 then 2dc into each dc in row  and sl st into the first dc (18)
Rows 3 & 4: dc around and sl st to join (18) and fasten off.

To place your ears on your hat squish the hat so it's lying flat (as in the photo above) and stitch your ears in place.  Make sure you catch the stitches on both sides of your ear and sew firmly to the hat stitches. 

Ta dah! 

As my mum would say, when I put hats with ears on my boys, your baby now has two sets of ears!  All the better to hear you with!

One day I will make one to fit my own head, why should babies have all the ear hat fun!